A decent small crag, unfortunately on SBA restricted land, and in theory a pass is needed for access. However, as the SBA widely uses (trashes?) other crags on the island, utilising the fixed gear without contributing to their up keep (shame on them) I'd be inclined to go for it. If challenged ask for a contribution to the bolt fund.

Update:Sadly all these routes have been retro-bolted (and not very well), so instead of a few half-decent trad routes, we now have a bunch of (frankly) poor sport routes. No idea why they did that - presumably the current crop of military types don't have the cojones of their fore-fathers. And it's not as if it wasn't easy to set top-ropes up if you so desired. Shame.

Directions:Not supplied.
Aspect:Faces North West/West
Google Maps:Click to locate on Google Maps
Route Summary:10 trad (D to E2)
Printable List:Click here for a printer friendly route list.
Route Profile:D1

1 Little 'Un VD 7m
Start at the scoop on the left hand side of the crag. Climb up to a small ramp and follow the crack leftwards.
2 Fred's Variant VD 7m
Start right of the previous route, climb to ramp and finish heading right.
3 Bulging Wall HS 4b 8m
Start at the bulge between Fred's Variant and Make it to Midnight. Climb up to ramp, head diagonally right to small ledge.
4 Lurch VS 5a 9m
Make a direct start of Bulging Wall, move up to lip to join Bulging Wall, then up and right to peg on Make it to Midnight.
5 Make it to Midnight E2 5c 9m
Climb straight up thin crack followed by bulge. In situ peg.
6 Orang Outang VS 4c 12m
Climb the left hand edge of the cave and continue up the face above.
7 Faith S 17m
Start right of the caves and an undercut corner. Make a difficult move to the top of the bulge to a small ledge. Continue to the top via crack and groove.
8 Faithful VS 9m
Start as for Faith to the ledge. Then bear left and up to scoop. Continue up thin crack to top.
9 Hope S 9m
Start 3m left of charity via the undercut. Climb up to ledge, and directly to the top.
10 Charity D 9m
Climb the obvious crack on the right hand side of the crag. Continue either side of the arete.


1Make it to Midnight has been bolted to give a F6b sports route.