Overiew
The well known traditional climbing area also has several recorded bouldering problems and a small bouldering area not recorded in the main routes section
(refered to as the
Lost World).
Problem List
Border Crag
Link to main crag info
| Border Dispute | 6b | 5m | Starts on a small boulder close to the wall of the cleft to the right of Griff. Traverse right to a pinch crux.
|
| Resurrection | 6a | 7m | Climb the wall direct halfway along the traverse of Border Dispute.
|
| Incursion | 5c | 7m | A continuation of Border Dispute finishing on good holds below an overhang. |
| Monodoigt | 5c | 5m | A short, fingery problem 2m right again and just past a small boulder at ground level. Climb the short, steep wall using side pulls until the monodoigt is reached for the right hand. A precarious sloping finish awaits. |
Tigani Rocks
Link to main crag info
First two problems in the cave to the left of Second Helpings
| Cave Crack | 5c | 10m | Traverse the crack in either direction. |
| No More Monkey Business | 6b | 10m | Traverses the pockets left to right on the wall of the cave. Finishes up and right strenuously. |
Next two towards right of sector
| Blow You Away | 6b | 7m | The A short but technically difficult problem up the bulging face 10m right of Pulp Friction. The face is ascended using a series of desperate slaps between poor holds until it is possible to make a nose‐grinding mantel at 2/3 height. Finish up the short wall above. |
| Keeper Of The Flame | 6b | 5m/c | This problem takes the right hand end of the huge bulge without suing the short, vertical crack to the right of the boulder. The aim is to reach a hidden jug about 18 inches above the level of the thin break. This can be achieved using a poor selection of crimps, monodoigts and undercuts. At the jug, jump off or choose your own finishing line. |
Tigani North
Link to main crag info
| Face Dance | 6a | 10m | Traverses the overhung area to the right of Serenity on pockets and crimps. |
Lost Worlds
This is a small bouldering venue around 150m east of the last turn off for Ayia Napa on the road towards Protaras. It is a viable area for some evening bouldering, especially in the summer, as it tends to be quite shaded and cooler than the main crags. However, be aware that the area is quite overgrown, and there is no guarantee that the local farmers will not object to you being there. You have been warned.
Just past a house on the left hand side of the road leading to Protaras is a deep, vegetated gully. The walls of this gully average 6‐8 metres in height and the most prominent feature is a tall, hanging arête.
| ‘Bleau Out | 5c | 8m | Climbs the short, dirty, vegetated face on the left hand wall. |
| A U 1 Sum ‘Bleau | 5c | 8m | At the furthers recess of the gully, on the right, is a short, overhanging face, left of a crumbling overhang. Take the face direct. The name comes from a Steven Segal film called ‘Marked For Death’. |
The following routes are on the right hand side of the gully.
| Lost Innocence | 5a | 6m | Climbs a groove on the right of the arête. |
| Ground Zero | 5c | 6m | The bulging wall just right. |
| Grace And Danger | 5c | 6m | The bulge and scoop right again. |
| Zimbambaloomba | 5c | 6m | The blunt, hanging arête via a painful hand jam. |
| Paradise Lost | 5a | 6m | The short wall around the corner. |
| Lost World | 6a | 15m | Traverse the head‐height holds from Lost Innocence and finishing up Zimbambaloomba. |