Links are given to reproductions to the original guides where available.
Early DaysRecorded rock climbing in Cyprus has its origins in the late 1960s, via a small group of climbing enthusiasts from the British forces stationed in Cyprus. The period 1967 to 1969 saw the opening up of several of the climbing areas now popular amongst local climbers and visitors to the island. All ascents were protected using traditional methods - nuts, hexes, threads, etc. During this time a set of smalll guides were produced to the following sectors:
- Pendadactylos: around 50 routes were established on the west face of the five fingers mountain - including the ridge traverse which consists of around 500m of exposed climbing/scrambling.
- Episkopi/Happy valley: A few dozen routes established on the rocks either side of the main road that goes through the 'Happy Valley' sovereign base area.
- Diarizos: Now a very popular sports climbing destination, the routes on the easy slab were pretty much all first climbed using traditional protection, including the classic route parthena/virgin. If you want to reconnect with the climbing from the past, then ditch the sport rack and try the (well protected) line of parthena (trying to ignore the bolts as best you can) at VS 5a, or follow the crack/corner to the right of No pump (labelled Mono ego - but more correctly named Ruthven Crack) at HS 4b - again well protected (on small wires and sliders) - this time no bolts to spoil the enjoyment!