Summary

A nice little crag with several routes, mainly in the lower grades. The routes are all traditional, and a couple are classics. It is easily accessible from Limassol, and only about 45 minutes from Pafos.
Directions:From Episkopi take the B6 heading west. Continue on the B6, passing through the army base. After passing the school (on the right) the road descends quite sharply. As the road starts to flatten out, Exhibition can be seen on the right (army polo pitch on the left). To park continue past the crag, and just as the road bears left and climbs back up the valley, take the small road on the right (towards Agios Georges). Park in the small area 200m further one on the right. Retrace your steps back to the crag on foot. Just before the road bends right and starts to ascend steeply, a small path can be seen on the left, leading up to the crag. Time from the road to the crag foot is approx. 5 minutes.
Aspect:Faces South/South West Receives sun from mid morning.
Google Maps:Click to locate on Google Maps
Notes:Its sheltered location and low altitude makes this crag very hot during the summer. It is only really a viable location from mid October to mid April.
Gear:Nuts, hexes and prussik loops. Narrow dynema slings for belays are useful.
Descent:To descend walk off the back of the crag, head right (east) for approx 20m, then take an obvious small path that leads down past the east side of the crag.
Route Summary:11 trad (D to HVS)
Printable List:Click here for a printer friendly route list.
Route Profile:

D

1

HD

2

VD

3

S

3

VS

1

HVS

1

1 Solo Mio HD 13m
Located on the far left of the crag. 5m left of the pinnacle. Climb the featured wall on brittle holds. Easy but no protection. Best solo-ed.
2 Pinnacle Route VD 14m
Located on the left of the crag. Start at the bottom of the pinnacle. Take either the right or left edge of the pinnacle, step over the gap at the top, then make your way to the top vai the line of least resistance - generally trending right slightly. Gear is poor.
3 Perineal Overstretch HVS 5a 15m
A classic. Start towards the right of the cave. Take a steepening corner crack, until it just about runs out. Then launch out diagonally right over the bulge (crux) and finish as for Feshie. Crux protection is good - provided you don' pump out trying to place it.
4 Feshie S 4a 16m
Another classic. Start 2m to the right of Perineal Overstretch. Climb the short wall then traverse diagonally left. Look out for a crafty thread placement. Make an exposed move into the wide crack, followed by commiting moves on big holds.
5 One for the Road S 17m
Follow Feshie for the first 10m. When in the steep crack, rather than going straight up head diagonally right.
6 Central Crack D 17m
Start 1m to the right of Feshie. Take the obvious easy line straight up. Crux about two thirds of the way up. Well protected and pleasant. A worthwhile introduction to the crag.
7 Slab Happy HD 20m
Start at the base of the large block on the left. Climb to the top of the block to a large ledge. Climb up and left to a smooth groove. Make easy (but unprotected) moves into the scoop and to the top.
8 Central Wall VD 20m
Start at the centre of the large block. Climb the block in the middle to the large ledge. Take the line just left of the scrappy corner and top-out to the right of the bush.
9 Gynack VS 4c 18m
Start at the base of the large block and climb its right hand edge. Step right and climb the wall above with tricky bulge bulge in the middle.
10 Dig S 12m
5m to the right of Gynack, take the small gap in the vegetation to the base of a broken crack. Follow this mostly straight up.
11 Dog VD 12m
8m to the right of Nig climb to the right of a scoop and continue up the easy (but protectionless) wall above.

Updates

1Perineal overstretch has been bolted to yield a F6a sports route.