Summary

One of the few climbable venues in the Troodos hills. Even so it's quite loose in places and requires care. Nice location next to a waterfall. Home to four sports routes and a few trad. However, due the loose nature of the rock, only the sports routes are recommended (which take the best lines anyway). Only these are described.
Directions:Approach from Platres. Follow any of the main roads heading west out of Platres. You should come to a roundabout on the eastern outskirts of Platres. Take the turn-off sign-posted to Troodhitissa Monastery. After climbing for approx 6km the road levels out and has a sharp left bend. Opposite the bend, there is a picnic area. Park here, and cross back over the road. Walk back up the road towards Platres for about 20m, hop over the road barrier and scramble down a short loose slope. Follow the line of the stream down, crossing over it at one point, until the crags come into view. The routes all lie beneath the National Guards abseil platform.
Aspect:Faces South East In the shade from mid-afternoon onwards. Quite a nice spot of an evening during the summer.
Google Maps:Click to locate on Google Maps
Notes:Helmet strongly advised for climber and belayer. If the National Guard are training then you won't be able to climbe - although this hasn't happened to me in several visits. After heavy rain the stream may bar access to the routes via the usual method. In this case abseiling from the platform will be the best option.
Route Summary:4 sport (5a to 5c)
Printable List:Click here for a printer friendly route list.
Route Profile:

5a

1

5b

2

5c

1

1 Andio Philli F5b 21m
Start on the left hand side of the big boulder, at the base of a bulge. Make a difficult move up (the obvious hold is worryingly loose) to gain a vertical crack. Follow this briefly then gradually move left to avoid the overhanging grove then back right to the top.
2 I Patridha tou Ponou F5b 20m
Start in the middle of the big boulder. Pull onto the face, and meander up the line of the bolts.
3 Ksipnima Psikhis F5c 21m
Start at the right of the big boulder. Pull over the overhanging flake (strenuous). Continue up the right hand side of the slab.
4 Kalosorises F5a 21m
Climb up the horribly loose groove with extreme care. Continue up the improving groove with more confidence.